Places to eat in Würzburg
Mrs.Gino and I try and make a trip to her native Bavaria once a year to visit her family. Over the years, I’ve grown very fond of the place. When we met, she struck me immediately as something of a die-hard romantic and after spending so much time in her home country I now understand why. There is something essentially old fashioned about Bavaria. It has more than a touch of the fairy-tale feel about it. It’s there in its architecture, its landscape and especially in its’ winter weather which makes getting cosy with your nearest and dearest something of a necessity. I’ve visited many of the attractions including Neuschwanstein Castle, the Black Forest and Baden-Baden Spa but for me, the thing I enjoy most about Bavaria, aside from the hospitality of Mrs. Gino’s family of course, is the food.
I have always been a hearty eater, but in Bavaria, meals seem to be something of an event rather than something one simply does to refuel. Breakfast is, certainly to my mind, a highlight which makes getting up on any cold morning something to look forward to. If you plan on visiting Bavaria, there are some traditional breakfast dishes you must try and I would happily vouch for any of these restaurants to get your day off to a good start.
This restaurant is an old converted mill and is always busy. If you want to go for an evening meal I’d recommend that you book in advance. Part of its appeal is undoubtedly the two terraces which jut out from the building and overlook the Main River and charming Alte Brücke Bridge. If it’s too chilly to enjoy the terrace, there’s a log fire indoors where you get not only to enjoy the warmth, but the smell of their unbelievably good, freshly baked bread. This is by far one of my favourite places to order a large coffee, some fresh bread and pastries and complete a crossword in the morning. It always leaves me feeling content.
This café, much like the Alte Mainmühle is very popular. It’s situated in a busier part of town close to the shops and markets and is a wonderful place to sit and people watch. Mrs.Gino is always happy to take a detour from the stores to rest here for a while because they do a stunning selection of cakes and sweet desserts. I personally have more of a savoury tooth, and have enjoyed many a traditional Bavarian breakfast of Weißwurst here. Weißwurst, or ‘white sausage’ is a boiled – not grilled or fried, very filling breakfast item served with sweet mustard and a large pretzel which, according to tradition, must be eaten before noon. They serve it in almost every café and restaurant but for a nice atmosphere and a good central location, I’d happily recommend the Caféhaus.
As I’ve already mentioned, my appetite is hearty yet this small, understated café never fails to satisfy it. A visit here is a must for some Leberkäse, which like all other traditional Bavarian dishes is widely available. Generally speaking, Leberkäse is like a thickly sliced loaf of paté, which is served more often than not with sauerkraut, sweet mustard or pretzels, but at this café, they serve it with the most delicious Bratkartoffeln – hot, pan-fried potatoes with onions and bacon. It is utterly delicious.
Needless to say, I have returned from another visit to Bavaria with a tighter waistband than when I left. But that’s as much a part of any good holiday as booking tickets and I thoroughly enjoyed every bite.